Protagonisti:
Io
Mi chiamo Maurizio e posso definirmi grandicello. Sono sempre stato appassionato di bicicletta anche se non a livello di competizione. Mi è sempre piaciuto fare gite e visitare luoghi. Purtroppo,fino ad oggi, non ero mai riuscito a coinvolgere in questa mia passione ne la moglie ne i figli. Mia sorella ha la mia stessa passione ma per vari motivi non abbiamo mai potuto condividerla. Finalmente però sono riuscito ad organizzare un vero e proprio viaggio in bici. Se non riesco a farlo adesso temo che non lo potrò più fare. Quindi viva l’avventura e speriamo che tutto vada come spero. Dimenticavo di dirvi che il viaggio è Pesaro Roma una vera avventura nato dalla lettura fatta in Internet di un viaggio simile fatto da un ciclista amatoriale.
Lei
ovvero mia moglie Patrizia. Incredibile ma vero! Non aveva mai voluto seguirmi nei miei vagabondaggi se non in poche occasioni ed ogni volta nascevano discussioni e lamentele. Ma pochi mesi fà è stata fulminata sulla via di Damasco quando ha provato per la prima volta la bicicletta elettrica rendendosi conto che ci si poteva divertire senza la proverbiale fatica del ciclista. Da allora anche lei è diventata appassionata. Se a questo aggiungete il fatto che il viaggio ci permetterà di visitare i luoghi delle sue origini che da tanto tempo non vedevamo, l’assenso è stato immediato. Speriamo che continui così.
L’altra
Non pensate al termine nella sua connotazione letteraria quando con l’altra di intende praticamente l’amante! No, qui si intende proprio l’altra signora che ha deciso di condividere con noi l’avventura. Giovanna è sempre stata la compagna di viaggio di mia sorella. Anche mia sorella avrebbe dovuto essere della compagnia ma il suo ginocchio ballerino ha deciso di terminare il suo servizio proprio adesso e lo deve quindi operare. Di conseguenza ci ha abbandonato e si è ritirata. Giovanna però ha preferito partecipare e metterci a disposizione la sua preziosa esperienza.
Siamo un terzetto eterogeneo ma affidabile. Speriamo funzioni tutto così potremo ripetere l’esperienza con altri viaggi che già mi frullano per la testa. Meglio battere il ferro fin che è caldo (come si suole dire) Dobbiamo sfruttare al massimo il tempo che abbiamo davanti.
Giorno della partenza 17 maggio.
Non dovrebbe essere né troppo caldo né troppo freddo. Immediatamente smentito perché fa un caldo estivo. Meglio il caldo che il freddo. L’offerta delle FFSS è sempre da prendere con le molle. Alla stazione di Bergamo gli ascensori aiutano il trasporto delle bici ma salire sui treni e sempre un esercizio di sollevamento pesi. Chissà perché chi fa le regole non prova mai a sperimentare le regole che impone. Adesso possiamo rilassarci fino alle 19 circa, ora di arrivo a Pesaro.
Viaggio tranquillo senza particolari pensieri o tensioni. Chissà cosa passa per la testa della mia consorte? Chissà se ha paura o se si sente tranquilla? Vedremo.
Arrivati a Pesaro e riusciamo a trovare facilmente l’albergo anche perché Pesaro si presenta come una città amica della bicicletta. E’ percorsa dalle “bicipolitane” ovvero percorsi ciclabili che facilitano la mobilità urbana. Meno piacevole l’impatto con l’albergo che ci chiede 5€ a bicicletta per poterle posteggiare in luogo sicuro per la notte. Non stiamo parlando di box privato ma di un parcheggio comune dell’albergo senza particolari sistemi di sicurezza. Mi sembra francamente un eccesso. Ma siamo all’inizio dell’avventura e a certe cose si passa subito sopra. Se poi la cena della sera si rivela come una vera piacevolezza allora il buon umore ritorna subito. Porzioni abbondanti, persino esagerate, e di gusto ottimo per piatti gustati di fronte ad un mare che inviterebbe ad un tuffo notturno. Passatelli al sugo di pesce e fritto misto da affogarci dentro. Anche dall’albergo si gode una vista piacevole e, per noi cittadini nordisti, respirare il profumo del mare è sempre un’esperienza gratificante. La mattina dopo, poi, veniva la voglia di scendere al mare e godersi la spiaggia, ma il viaggio incombeva e non dovevamo farci distrarre.
Prima tappa Urbino 18.5.
Una volta lasciata la città percorriamo strade a basso traffico e cominciamo a salire le colline marchigiane. Sembra che il tempo non sia proprio bello, ma più procediamo e più il sole decide di esserci amico e compagno di viaggio. Pedalare in mezzo al verde con il profumo dei fiori senza faticare troppo nel pedalare è una cosa piacevole, piacevole anche per chi, come mia moglie, non ha grande esperienza. Indubbiamente la E-bike è una grande invenzione e permette a tutti o quasi di fare lunghi tratti magari anche in salita senza troppa fatica. Sperduti tra le colline marchigiane, la fame cominciava a farsi sentire ma il paesaggio non lasciava intravedere luoghi amici dove rifocillarsi. Ma non ci si deve mai disperare! In Italia un posto dove mangiare lo trovi sempre. Infatti, quando affamati abbiamo chiesto ad un passante se ci fosse almeno un Bar, il passante sorridendo ci ha indicato un ristorante proprio li! Dietro l’angolo (noi ovviamente non lo avevamo visto). Il sapore di una birra fresca è ineguagliabile quando, accaldati, lo si può gustare, magari con un buon piatto di pasta. Ovviamente non tutti i piatti di pasta sono uguali e non tutti vanno citati a futura memoria, ma quando hai fame e sete, ogni cosa è benvenuta e quasi sublime. Per noi E-bike dotati il pasto ha spesso un altro importante significato, quello di poter ricaricare la batteria! Fase importantissima perchè ti permetterà di raggiungere l’agognata meta senza doverti trascinare una pesante bicicletta priva di carica. Quindi, grazie alla sosta abbiamo rifocillato fisico e batterie.
Va fatta una precisazione, diciamo tecnica. Patrizia e Giovanna sono dotate di due batterie ciascuna. Questo significa che possono percorrere i 60 km previsti dalle nostre tappe in totale tranquillità, dato che le due batterie, complessivamente coprono abbondantemente questi tipi di percorso. Io invece sono dotato di una sola batteria che, teoricamente dovrebbe coprire fino ad 80km ,ma che in pratica non è dato sapere quanto coprirà perchè, da una parte dipende dal tipo di percorso che deve essere fatto (se ci sono tante salite si consuma di più) dall’altra, essendo io abbastanza robusto, faccio consumare più batteria. Devo quindi stare attento e valutare il percorso che farò con attenzione. Questa precisazione vi apparirà chiara più avanti, nella prossima tappa.
Intanto però non abbiamo problemi e continuiamo la nostra passeggiata fino ad Urbino.
E’chiaro che per ogni tappa dovremo trovare un posto per dormire. Abbiamo scartato l’opzione di prenotare in anticipo tutti i posti perché non eravamo sicuri delle nostre capacità e, se poi non fossimo riusciti a raggiungere una meta avremmo avuto problemi di annullamento delle prenotazioni. Abbiamo quindi deciso di affidarci di volta in volta ad un noto servizio di prenotazione. Mentre ci riposavamo per il pranzo provvedevamo alla prenotazione. La scelta si è rivelata giusta nel merito ma un po’ limitante nella sostanza per due motivi, che, ovviamente si sono manifestati già nella prima tappa. Il servizio offre sicuramente posti adeguati alle cifre proposte e affidabili ma: 1) non sempre fornisce indicazioni sul fatto che le nostre amate biciclette possano essere custodite in sicurezza, 2) non sempre le distanze da quella che dovrebbe essere la nostra meta sono proporzionate al nostro mezzo di locomozione. Questo spiega perché per il nostro pernottamento di Urbino abbiamo dovuto fare circa 3 km in più su una strada ad alta percorrenza con i tir che sembravano missili che passavano al nostro fianco. Per fortuna non c’è stato nessun inconveniente ed il riposo con relativa cena ci hanno ripagato della momentanea paura.
Seconda tappa Gubbio 19.5
Siamo pronti a ripartire anche se il pezzo di strada da fare per riprendere la rotta ci preoccupa un po’. Forse perché è mattina presto, ma per fortuna il traffico è molto meno intenso ed arriviamo presto su una strada molto più adatta a noi ciclisti. Ci consigliano di prendere la strada che passa per Acqualagna e quindi per il paese di Scheggia così eviteremo il traffico. Dovremo fare una deviazione per vedere la riserva naturale della Gola del Furlo. La nostra intenzione era quella di fare tutto il percorso che passa nella gola ma ci hanno detto che è bloccato e se vogliamo vedere qualcosa dobbiamo fare questa deviazione. Come previsto il tratto è impegnativo ma molto bello in mezzo alla natura e con pochissimo traffico. E’ veramente piacevole pedalare ed anche se con molte salite il fatto di essere dotati di E-bike ci rende tutto piacevole. La gola del Furlo meritava una visita ed è un peccato che per vedere qualcosa abbiamo dovuto allungare il percorso. Piacevole la fermata per rifocillarci in un bar al Furlo dove ricarichiamo corpo ed elettricità. Una delle cose belle del viaggio in bicicletta è che non devi pensare al tempo e non hai l’esigenza di raggiungere un luogo per forza ad un’ora specifica. Sei libero di fermarti e riposare ogni volta che credi. O almeno pensavamo fosse così!
Ripartiamo e continuiamo a goderci il viaggio. La salita è abbastanza lunga anche se non faticosa. La verde Umbria ci offre tutto lo spettacolo naturale che ci circonda. Purtroppo comincio a preoccuparmi per la tenuta della mia batteria. Patrizia e Giovanna non hanno problemi perché hanno le batterie di scorta, ma io no. Devo raggiungere Scheggia visto che dopo, come mi hanno garantito, è tutta discesa quindi se anche la batteria finisse potrei proseguire ugualmente. Con qualche apprensione arriviamo alla vetta e quindi, adesso, giù fino a Gubbio. La batteria ha ancora una tacca probabilmente quasi al limite ma in discesa non ci dovrebbero essere problemi. Sono circa le 17 e saremmo nei tempi giusti. Saremmo perché qui scatta l’imprevisto o forse sarebbe meglio dire l’inesperienza! Dopo pochi chilometri di effettiva discesa mi rendo conto che NON è tutta discesa ma una serie di Sali scendi che fanno lavorare la mia batteria. Quindi dopo circa 2,5 km la mia decide di essere stanca e vuota. Non è pensabile continuare perche, come ci hanno detto due ciclisti incontrati non è vero che è tutta discesa ma è tutta un sali e scendi e con una pesante E-bike non è fattibile. Decidiamo quindi di tornare a Scheggia per trovare un posto dove ricaricare la mia batteria. Spero di trovare soluzioni alternative ma inutilmente. Abbiamo già prenotato per la notte a Gubbio ed ovviamente la prenotazione non è rimborsabile. Decidiamo di mangiare qualcosa mentre la batteria si ricarica di almeno 2 tacche. Forse per la rabbia io non ho nemmeno appetito. Se lo avessi saputo mi sarei fermato subito a ricaricare senza perdere due buone ore di tempo. Nel frattempo però e scesa la sera e questo vuol dire che ci dovremo fare 16 km al buio in mezzo ai boschi. La bicicletta non è esattamente un mezzo idoneo a viaggi notturni specialmente nei boschi anche perché le luci di una bicicletta non sono esattamente adatti ad illuminare la via. Vi lascio immaginare lo stato d’animo di Patrizia ma non abbiamo alternative e dobbiamo arrivare a Gubbio.
Comprendo tutti gli improperi che ha pensato e detto Patrizia perchè è stata veramente dura. Si doveva andare piano non solo perchà la strada era in discesa ma soprattutto perché non si vedeva nulla!!, Per fortuna il traffico era inesistente quindi non abbiamo corso il rischio di essere investiti, ma vedere il percorso era veramente difficile. Non un lampione, non una lampadina e nemmeno la luna,, la strada con continue curve e senza netti contorni sui lati. In somma è stata un’avventura quasi alla Indiana Jones. Non vi dico la gioia quando, finalmente, abbiamo visto le prime luci di Gubbio! Eravamo stanchi morti e preoccupati ma eravamo arrivati. Come però accade nei film l’avventura non era ancora terminata e ci toccava ancora l’ultima avventura. Dovevamo trovare il “civico21” ovvero il luogo prenotato per la notte. Avete mai provato ad arrivare in una città, alle 23 dove non gira anima viva e in una situazione in cui il navigatore si rifiuta di collaborare? Ecco! quella è stata l’ultima parte dell’avventura. Cartelli inesistenti, indicazioni stradali mancanti o illeggibili, numeri civici conosciuti a memoria dai residenti ma mancanti per i poveri turisti stravolti. Ma dato che Indiana Jones non molla mai (del resto anche noi bergamaschi) chiedendo un po’ di qui e un po’ di là, rompendo le scatole a mezzo mondo, finalmente a mezzanotte circa eravamo, prostrati ma felici a letto. Questa credo sia stata la tappa più dura ma, per la serie “Se non son matti non li vogliamo”, anche la più eccitante..
Terza tappa Assisi 20.5
Alla mattina tutta la tensione era sparita e ci siamo goduti una piccola e meritata colazione con visita a Gubbio. Inutile dire che, alla luce del sole e con le menti lucide ci siamo accorti che trovare il fatidico “civico21” sarebbe stato facilissimo. Bastava girare a sinistra al primo incrocio incontrato arrivando a Gubbio. Ma scusate! se è tutto troppo facile che gusto c’è? Abbiamo sfiorato per pochi giorni l’evento più importante di Gubbio, la corsa dei Ceri, e la città era pavesata dalle bandiere del cero vincente. Non so se esserne contento o no ma se fossimo capitati qui in quel giorno sarebbe stato molto più difficile trovare una camera. Quindi, forse è stato meglio così.
Riprendiamo a pedalare sulle colline che separano Gubbio da Assisi, nostro prossimo obiettivo. Il paesaggio è sempre piacevolissimo ed anche il tempo che è fin troppo caldo considerando che siamo a Maggio.. Il percorso non ha particolari difficoltà o problemi compensandoci di quelli avuti il giorno precedente. I soli impegni sono i sali scendi della strada ma non capiterà mai più che mi trovino a rischio appiedamento. Se il percorso sale vorrà dire che ci fermeremo un po’ di più ed un po’ prima per ricaricare le batterie. E’ molto bello godersi il panorama di Assisi mentre ci avviciniamo. La città e incastonata sulla montagna e anche da lontano si vede la maestosità della chiesa. Come sempre il nostro problema è trovare l’albergo che abbiamo prenotato. E’ destino che quando siamo quasi arrivati il navigatore cominci a dare i numeri e ci costringa a veri e propri quiz per trovare il nostro albergo. Questa volta il quiz è abbastanza facile e, se non riuscivamo a trovarlo, è solo perché…era li che ci guardava. Noi non lo vedevamo anche se si chiamava IL CASTELLO, Siamo proprio dei plebei!! La cosa che più ci ha provato in tutto il viaggio, a parte l’avventura, e stata la fase di carico e scarico dei bagagli perché, non sembra, ma 2 borse a testa piene da portare su scale od ascensori che, chissà perché, sono sempre angusti, dopo 50/60 km di pedalata ebbene sono abbastanza gravosi. Alle borse si devono aggiungere le batterie in uso per poterle ricaricare durante la notte. La mia pesa una tonnellata!! Devo dire che questo è stato l’albergo dove abbiamo mangiato peggio, forse perché essendo popolato da una quantità industriale di suore probabilmente in visita alla basilica, offriva solo menu fisso (e decisamente scarso). Pazienza! Mangiar poco a volte fa bene. Il problema del nostro tipo di viaggio è che non abbiamo avuto molto tempo per visitare le città che abbiamo toccato e quindi di Assisi abbiamo visto solo i luoghi più vicini al nostro albergo facendo una passeggiata dopo cena. C’era comunque un sacco di gente in visita e molti autobus di gite organizzate. Non amiamo essere travolti dalla folla.
Quarta tappa Spoleto 21.5
Siamo contenti perché quella di oggi dovrebbe essere la più ciclistica delle tappe dato che ci dovrebbe essere una meravigliosa pista ciclabile che unisce Assisi a Spoleto. Infatti la tappa inizia bene. La pista ciclabile esiste, anche se non è propriamente una ciclabile ma una strada a bassa percorrenza, ma permette comunque una pedalata agevole e tranquilla. Ci dilettiamo anche a visitare il Santuario del sacro Tugurio di Rivotorto. Il tempo continua ad essere amico anche se, forse, troppo caldo. Ma non si può pretendere che vada sempre tutto bene, altrimenti che avventura sarebbe? In Italia le indicazioni stradale sono una delle cose più mal gestite. Sembra quasi che o non si voglia dare le indicazioni corrette per raggiungere un luogo (gelosia? Paura? trascuratezza?) o che le indicazioni vengano messe o non messe da qualcuno del luogo che, conoscendo le zone non ha la necessità di avere indicazioni perché “tanto le sa già”. Questo ovviamente se non sono nascoste da piante o muri vari. Così capita che mentre viaggi tranquillo e fiducioso ad un certo punto ti trovi ad un incrocio particolarmente complesso e non trovi nessuna indicazione. Devi allora procedere o chiedendo informazioni, ma becchi sempre l’unica persona che “mi spiace non sono di qua” o quello che, sapendo tutto non sa spiegarti nulla. Allora vai con il navigatore che però sembra predisposto anche alle biciclette ma ovviamente non alle piste ciclabili. Quindi ti manda su strade ad alta percorrenza con il rischio di essere spazzato da un Tir o da qualche automobilista un po’ distratto. Fatto sta che riusciamo ad arrivare a Bevagna. Graziosa cittadina con un bel centro storico presso la quale ci fermiamo per pranzo. Non abbiamo fatto salite e quindi le batterie sono ancora con la pancia piena. Noi no e ci rifocilliamo.
Con tutta calma ripartiamo e cerchiamo di ritrovare la pista ciclabile che cartelli difficilmente interpretabili, almeno per la direzione, indicano. Non si capisce che direzione indichino. Ce ne è uno solo e non si sa se indica la direzione Assisi o quella di Spoleto. Forse pretendiamo troppo?!!?. Con un po’ di fortuna e tante richieste riusciamo finalmente a trovare la strada giusta. E’veramente una pista ciclabile. Per l’esattezza è un terrapieno asfaltato tra due canali che corre dritto come un fuso sotto il sole cocente per svariati chilometri. Non un albero, non un posto piacevole dove fermarsi, figuriamoci un posto dove bere o mangiare un gelato!! Le cose che incontro sono due bisce d’acqua che mi attraversano la strada ed un ramarro grosso come un topino che mi osserva curioso prima di scappare. Nel senso opposto al nostro incontriamo un ragazzo ed una ragazza ciclisti con i quali scambiamo due chiacchiere. Vengono da Roma ed oltre a condividere con noi le riflessioni relative alla disorganizzazione dei percorsi ciclistici, ci mettono in guardia su ciò che troveremo a Roma perché, pare, sia messa molto male sotto tanti punti di vista. Ma è ancora presto per preoccuparci di Roma, visto che per ora dobbiamo arrivare a Spoleto senza morire di sete. Dopo un po’ di chilometri incontriamo un gentile signore che porta a spasso il cane e che ci informa che l’unico modo per trovare un bar, e quindi un po’ d’acqua è quello di uscire al primo ponte ed arrivare al paese più vicino. Fortuna vuole che il paese sia la sede delle Fonti del Clitunno e quindi possiamo visitare questo luogo famoso. Per obiettività devo dire che è un posto abbastanza insignificante (scusa Carducci). Dissetati e rinfrancati riprendiamo la pista ciclabile che mi ricorda il deserto dei tartari. Finalmente arriviamo alla periferia di Spoleto e, per fortuna, chiediamo subito informazioni per trovare l’albergo che abbiamo prenotato. Dico per fortuna perché si trova proprio dalla parte della città dove stiamo passando. Se fossimo arrivati in centro a Spoleto avremmo poi dovuto tornare indietro. L’albergo è in mezzo al bosco (non per nulla si chiama “La Macchia”) ed è in un posto piacevole. Come arriviamo Giovanna vede che c’è anche la piscina funzionante e pensa di sfruttare subito l’occasione. Patrizia stanca non crede di poter fare altrettanto, ma la tentazione è forte e si lascia quindi convincere. Le due ninfette stagionate si lanciano in una piacevolissima nuotata che le rinfranca e le ripulisce dalla stanchezza mentre il tricheco Maurizio riposa le sue stanche membra limitandosi ad una doccia. E’ sicuramente il posto dove abbiamo mangiato meglio e la serata finisce quindi in bellezza.
Quinta tappa Terni 22.5
Uno ed il più forte dei motivi che hanno indotto Patrizia a seguirmi in questa avventura è stato il fatto che saremmo passati da Terni e da Roma. Terni è la sua città natale, è sempre stata legata ai ricordi della sua vita passata li quando era bambina ed al ricordo di sua zia Luciana che ci ha abitato fino alla fine. A Terni risiede la cugina figlia di questa Zia e Patrizia ci teneva in modo particolare a visitare la tomba di sua zia Luciana, non avendo potuto a suo tempo partecipare alle sue esequie. Per questo avrebbe contattato la cugina per organizzare la visita. Questo però, come in tutte le avventure, avverrà dopo, dopo gli eventi avventurosi della giornata. In teoria tra Spoleto e Terni ci dovrebbero essere delle piste ciclabili che, passando in luoghi naturali permetterebbero di evitare il traffico e di godersi il paesaggio. Peccato che una parte sia chiusa perché le gallerie non sono ancora state verificate dopo i terremoti recenti ed un’altra sia chiusa perché, pare, ci sia rischio caduta massi. Quindi le parti vere di ciclabili non sono molte. A questo aggiungiamo il fatto che le parti praticabili sono più adatte a MTB che non a biciclette come le nostre e richiedono un po’ di pratica ed esperienza. Io e Giovanna abbiamo entrambe ma Patrizia, essendo quasi una novizia della bicicletta, non le ha. Ed infatti dopo pochi chilometri accade il patatrak. In una discesa un po’ ripida su una strada parecchio ghiaiosa ed instabile la bicicletta di Patrizia perde aderenza e scivola trascinandola a terra. Caduta per fortuna breve e con poche conseguenze superficiali, le tipiche sbucciature di mani e ginocchia ma sufficienti per spaventare la Povera ed inesperta Patrizia. In un sol colpo temo che la furia omicida si scateni e renda tutto il viaggio una orrenda tragedia. Esagerato!. Non è così! Si è spaventata e dobbiamo cercare un percorso alternativo perché questo è un po’ tropo rischioso per lei, ma, tutto sommato, l’ha presa bene e dopo una pausa è disposta a risalire in sella. Decidiamo quindi di riprendere la strada principale sperando che non sia troppo trafficata, considerando anche che è domenica. Infatti, il traffico è più che sostenibile al punto che verso le 12.30 riusciamo anche a trovare un buon posto sotto le fresche frasche per rifocillare corpo e batterie. Non so se a far passare la paura abbia contribuito il cibo, chiaramente umbro, ma Patrizia si è ormai ripresa, sbucciature permettendo. Il resto del percorso lo facciamo su strada e fortuna vuole che il traffico almeno fino a Terni sia scarso, Passiamo per le cascate delle Marmore ma ci limitiamo a guardare da fuori, perché c’è un mucchio di gente. Poi, finalmente arriviamo a Terni. Patrizia si sente a casa e riconosce i luoghi della sua infanzia. Il posto dove dormiremo è nei quartieri dove risiedeva la zia e sono quindi familiari. Il posto dove dormiremo è una casa ed è bella e ben tenuta. Dopo un po’ di riposo ed una salutare doccia, visto l’ora tarda, andiamo a cena in un locale vicino che si rivelerà davvero buono. A tavole decidiamo che il termine del viaggio ovvero Terni Roma, vista l’esperienza, lo faremo in treno. Dopo cena Patrizia telefona alla cugina e si accorda per incontrarci il giorno dopo. In pratica le ultime due tappe saranno Terni un giorno in più e la successiva Roma, ma in treno. Intanto ci riposiamo e dormiamo.
Sesta tappa Terni 23.5
Siamo pronti a visitare Terni. Per prima cosa dobbiamo cambiare alloggio perché non era previsto che ci fermassimo un’altra notte e quindi il posto per la notte successiva era occupato. Troviamo posto all’Hotel de Paris. Facciamo colazione, ritiriamo le nostre biciclette e andiamo dalla cugina di Patrizia che ci accoglie veramente bene. Sistemiamo momentaneamente le biciclette nel suo garage e saliamo a casa sua per tutte le fasi di saluto dopo 30 anni di lontananza. Sia lei, Maria Grazia sia il marito Massimo sono veramente cordiali e simpatici. Del resto, li ricordavo proprio così, come persone con le quali è facile legare e fare amicizia. Il fatto che siano passati tanti anni è dovuto alla distanza che ci separa ed ovviamente alle vicende della vita. Anche Giovanna che non li conosceva si trova a proprio agio ed il tempo passa senza che ci si accorga. Andiamo tutti insieme al cimitero per soddisfare i desideri di Patrizia che può vedere la Zia ed il nonno di cui conserva un piacevole ricordo. Non per niente anche sulla parete di casa nostra è appesa una fotografia di Patrizia con l’abito della prima comunione che dà la mano a nonno Francesco. Ovviamente siamo invitati a pranzo da Maria Grazia e il mio ricordo non mi smentisce perchè la ricordavo come un’ottima cuoca e devo dire che non posso che confermare il ricordo. I fiori di zucca che ho mangiato da lei era un po’ che non li mangiavo. Passiamo delle ore piacevoli. Poi Massimo anche lui in bicicletta ci accompagna all’hotel de Paris per prendere possesso della camera. Ci accordiamo per rivederci a cena presso lo stesso ristorante dove noi avevamo cenato la sera prima, visto che ci eravamo trovati bene. Nelle ore di attesa prima ci rechiamo alla stazione per prendere i biglietti per Roma poi Patrizia ci fa vedere i luoghi della sua infanzia. Passeggiamo per Terni e si può vedere che Patrizia è emozionata anche se, allo stesso tempo, si rende conto che questa non è più la sua città. Terni in sé non è, per la verità, nulla di particolare pur avendo, come tutte le città, dei luoghi caratteristici. Per l’ora di cena ci ritroviamo con Maria Grazia e Massimo al ristorante e trascorriamo una serata veramente piacevole (il polipo che ho mangiato li non so se lo potrò mai riassaggiare). Parlando con Maria Grazia Patrizia scopre che a pochi passi da dove dormiremo c’è la pescheria gestita nientemeno che dall’amica di infanzia che aveva dovuto salutare quando, 60 anni fa, era partita da Terni con la famiglia per venire al Nord. Decide così, felice, di incontrarla la mattina dopo. Torniamo all’albergo dopo aver salutato i piacevolissimi cugini per il meritato riposo. Patrizia è contenta e serena.
Settima tappa Roma 24.5
E’proprio vero che il diavolo ci deve mettere lo zampino e fare in modo che qualcosa turbi la serenità se questa è troppo evidente. Scendiamo per la colazione e ci portiamo dietro i bagagli. Il piano è :fare una capatina alla pescheria per salutare l’amica, sperando che ci sia, e poi andare alla stazione per prendere il treno. Usciamo dall’albergo, io sono davanti ed arrivo alle biciclette per cominciare a prepararle quando mi vedo arrivare Patrizia piangente accompagnata da Giovanna. Uscendo dall’albergo una disconnessione malefica del marciapiede l’ha fatta inciampare e le ha fatto fare un tuffo a pesce sul selciato. I danni sono molto più gravi della caduta in bicicletta, anche se, per fortuna non gravissimi. Sbucciature varie e botta violenta alla mano che diventa presto viola. Le chiedo se vuole andare nella farmacia vicina per fare una verifica dei danni ma non vuole farlo perché vuole andare a vedere se trova l’amica. Così con qualche difficoltà arriviamo al negozio dell’amica e fortuna vuole che ci sia. Dimenticando i dolori e le botte Patrizia si intrattiene con l’amica ed hanno un piacevole revival. Sono 60 anni che non si vedono ma è come se si fossero viste il giorno prima. Erano le amiche del cuore e quindi hanno un piacevole ricordo reciproco. Saluti baci e abbracci ma dobbiamo partire. Già abbiamo perso il treno che avevamo programmato e dovremo prendere il successivo. Pazienza! nel frattempo verifichiamo meglio le condizioni di Patrizia. Il danno maggiore è la botta alla mano abbastanza livida con il mignolo gonfio e blu. Non sembra fratturato perché riesce a muoverlo ma è comunque doloroso. E’il colmo che proprio l’ultimo giorno e proprio a piedi si sia fatta male. Sorvolo, per ora, sulle fatiche per raggiungere il binario e salire sul treno perché questo argomento verrà trattato in un capitolo apposta.
Visto il nuovo inconveniente la scelta di arrivare a Roma con il treno si è rivelata una scelta giusta, avvallata poi dagli avvenimenti successivi. Arrivati a Roma ci troviamo immersi in una sorta di girone dantesco. Noi, ormai abituati alla pace della verde Umbria ci ritroviamo alla stazione Termini che è strapiena di gente di ogni etnia, colore e dimensione. Nemmeno alla stazione centrale di Milano avevo avuto una tale sensazione di caos. Per fortuna il luogo dove dovremo dormire è, teoricamente, vicino alla stazione, ma è in un luogo che definire caotico e poco (tanto che riesco a farmi fregare una borsa fortunatamente vuota). Chiamiamo la padrona della casa dove alloggeremo che, quando arriva, risulta tesa ed agitata per motivi suoi. Quando viene a sapere che noi avevamo l’esigenza di un posto sicuro per le biciclette, sbrocca completamente. “Ma io non lo sapevo, ma io non posso, ma io non ho un luogo sicuro e non accetto responsabilità”. Già sembrava dover nascere la rissa! Per fortuna Giovanna da una parte ed io dall’altra, mantenendo la calma, siamo riusciti a mediare e dopo un po’ è stata trovata la soluzione. Le biciclette sarebbero state messe in un cortile chiuso presso un palazzo vicino. Non eravamo tranquilli ma era sicuramente l’unica soluzione praticabile. Non riesco nemmeno a spiegarvi il modo in cui si arrivava a questo cortile e le contorsioni che abbiamo dovuto fare per arrivarci. Pensate solo che ci trovavamo ai limiti della Casba. Sistemate le bici legate a quattro catene, carichi come somari di borse e batterie abbiamo preso possesso dell’appartamento. Bello senza dubbio anche se per arrivarci, prima dell’ascensore si doveva fare una scalinata pari sola a Trinità del Monti. Tutto questo fra le 12 e le 14. Io e Giovanna abbiamo deciso di mangiare qualcosa al bar di sotto, mentre Patrizia chiaramente molto provata ci ha aspettato in camera. Era messa male. I tramezzini e la birra hanno rinfrancato noi due ma non sapevo cosa aspettarmi dall’infortunata. Per fortuna si era calmata e ci siamo messi d’accordo, anche con lei, per rincontrarci verso le 17 perché non era possibile arrivare a Roma e non visitarla almeno un po’.
Così verso le 17 ci siamo messi in movimento rigorosamente a piedi. Abbiamo preso la metropolitana a Termini e ci siamo spostati alla prima stazione che fosse significativa per un turista, Fontana di Trevi. Passeggiata piacevolissima anche se sempre immersi nel Caos. Siamo arrivati alla fontana di Trevi che ci ha offerto uno spettacolo veramente degno. Molto meno degno era il caos di persone che stazionava intorno rendendo lo spettacolo, a mio avviso, molto meno bello. Sono convinto che l’accesso a certi monumenti dovrebbe essere contingentato, perchè, purtroppo, l’educazione non è un modo di fare molto diffuso. Quindi per tutelare i monumenti che sono patrimonio del mondo si dovrebbe fare in modo che solo chi ne è degno ne possa usufruire. Lo stesso discorso vale per Trinità dei monti anche se lì per fortuna c’era meno gente. E lo stesso vale a mio avviso per tutte le opere d’arte ed i luoghi artistici. Aggiungo che, a mio avviso, sarebbe sacrosanto multare chi maleducatamente sporca strade e luoghi abbandonando spazzatura di ogni genere. Facciamo ritorno al nostro appartamento, o meglio nelle vicinanze dove il barista ci ha promesso un’ottima cena presso un ristorantino a lui noto. Devo dire che le tagliatelle fatte in casa con i funghi porcini freschi che il ristorante ci ha proposto ci hanno rimesso in pace col mondo e persino il dito viola di Patrizia ha ripreso colore. L’unico dubbio che ci rimaneva andando a letto era “avremmo ritrovato le nostre biciclette?”, Se la risposta fosse stata NO tutto il viaggio sarebbe stato un grandioso insuccesso e avremmo rasentato il suicidio collettivo. Solo la mattina dopo avremmo risolto l’enigma.
Ottava tappa Il ritorno 25.5
E’ l’alba della verità. Troveremo o non troveremo i nostri amati Aquilante? Ci vestiamo in fretta e, fingendo indifferenza ci precipitiamo a recuperare le biciclette. Aspettiamo con ansia che ci aprano il portone e poi il cortile. Sorpresa sorpresa NON CI SONO PIU’.
Scherzo! ovviamente (non saremmo qui a scrivere, ma galleggeremmo sul Tevere). Erano ancora lì, più belle che mai. Le sleghiamo e ce le riportiamo sotto l’appartamento. Le carichiamo con i bagagli e andiamo alla stazione per il viaggio di ritorno. Soliti problemi per la ricerca del vagone che carichi le biciclette e solito sollevamento pesi per caricarle. Incontriamo un ragazzo, anche lui ciclista che ha fatto la via Francigena in bicicletta e che sta tornando a casa come noi. E’ un ragazzo simpatico che mi racconta come mai ha deciso di fare quel viaggio. Mi racconta che ha avuto un grosso incidente sul lavoro e che ha rischiato di morire. E’ caduto da dieci metri e pensava fosse finita. Evidentemente non era la sua ora e dopo quasi un anno di cure, interventi e rieducazione eccolo lì, quasi rimesso a nuovo. A vederlo non si direbbe che abbia passato quello che ha passato. Probabilmente il viaggio che ha intrapreso è stato una sorta di voto che ha deciso di fare. Gli auguro tutta la fortuna del mondo. La cosa che mi ha più colpito nel suo racconto è che quando si è reso conto che stava cadendo e non poteva più fare nulla, ha sentito un profondo senso di pace e serenità. Spero che questo sia la sensazione che provano tutti coloro che arrivano alla fine della loro vita anche se, in effetti, lui poi si è rimesso. Ma in quel momento non poteva saperlo.
Viaggio noioso fino a Genova porta Principe. Ma perché Genova vi chiederete. Perché non c’erano altri treni che trasportassero biciclette fino a Milano, così siamo stati costretti a prenderne uno fino a Genova, cambiare e prenderne uno fino a Milano ovviamente pagando di più. Visto che non c’è nulla di particolare da raccontare sul viaggio mi sfogherò a fare considerazione sul modo indegno con cui le FFSS fanno viaggiare i ciclisti. Per cominciare non possono viaggiare sulle frecce ovvero i treni più veloci (guarda caso ci sarebbe stato una Freccia Rossa che andava direttamente a Bergamo ma ovviamente non ci potevamo salire).
I posti su cui si possono caricare le biciclette devono essere stati studiati da esseri perversi che avevano lo specifico compito di disincentivare i viaggi con bicicletta al seguito perché :
1) per caricare e scaricare le bici si devono scalare 2 o 3 gradini ripidi e bisogna essere in due, uno che spinge ed uno che tira
2) una volta caricata si deve affrontare una curva a gomito sperando che la porta di entrata uscita non sia sullo stesso lato perché se così fosse ci vorrebbe il mago Udini per farle passare.
3) Lo spazio in cui metterle e di 6 al massimo quindi eventuali comitive non potranno mai viaggiare
4) Negli stessi spazi vanno a posizionarsi anche portatori di handicap con carrozzine o bagagli ingombranti. Su ogni treno c’è al massimo un vagone di questo tipo.
Su treni regionali come, ad esempio, il Milano Bergamo, non tutti i convogli possono portare le biciclette. Sarebbe molto più razionale incentivare i pendolari all’uso delle biciclette per rendere il traffico meno caotico. Ma lo schiaffo morale lo abbiamo avuto proprio sul Milano Bergamo. Il treno non ha i famosi gradini ma una piattaforma a livello del marciapiede della stazione ma, udite udite, una volta caricate le bici queste devono essere messe su una piattaforma raggiungibile solo grazie a tre gradini di 1,5m. Siamo a livello demenziale. Vorrei tanto conoscere gli ideatori di queste soluzioni e farli viaggiare per tutta Italia con il cartello al collo “questa è una mia idea”.
Tra un lamento e l’altro siamo arrivati a Genova, abbiamo cambiato treno, siamo arrivati a Milano e abbiamo cambiato per Bergamo godendoci la brillante soluzione sopra esposta.
Siamo quindi tornati alla nostra amata Bergamo e quindi alla fine del Viaggio. Stanchi morti, acciaccati, (Patrizia in particolare), ma felici e comunque contenti.
Sicuramente ne combineremo delle altre!!
Considerazioni Finali
Al termine di questa avventura voglio fare alcune considerazioni a schema libero che servano come futura esperienza per noi, se faremo altri viaggi e per chi ci vorrà leggere per evitare loro gli stessi nostri errori.
1) Quando si decide di partire si deve decidere se si vuol fare un viaggio itinerante (come il nostro) oppure un viaggio turistico. Nel nostro caso i tempi di viaggio hanno assorbito quasi tutto il tempo mentre se si vuole fare un viaggio turistico, nel senso che si vogliono anche visitare i luoghi che si attraversano, si devono dilatare i tempi. Fare il percorso, fermarsi per la notte, visitare i luoghi il giorno o i giorni successivi e ripartire il giorno dopo.
2) Cercare di pianificare nel dettaglio le tappe in modo da poter prenotare prima i vari soggiorni. Noi, io ho pianificato in modo un po’ superficiale basandomi su un viaggio che avevo trovato in internet ma è stato un po’ troppo improvvisato. E’vero che nel nostro caso abbiamo trovato molti intoppi che probabilmente non potevamo prevedere (Gola del Furlo Bloccata, ciclabili Spoleto Terni bloccate ecc) e spesso la segnaletica è molto improvvisata e mancante ma sicuramente si può fare meglio di quello che ho fatto io.
3) Booking ed il navigatore cellulare aiutano moltissimo ma, come già segnalato, non sono propriamente indicati per viaggi in bici. Fare una deviazione in auto di 3 km è un conto, mentre la stessa in bici è un’altra cosa.
4) Mai fidarsi troppo delle guide incontrate verificarle con almeno altre tre
5) OKKIO alle FFSS
6) Come documentatori fotografici siamo un disastro!!!
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paniek, gebrek aan studie en andere soortgelijke redenen, anderen omdat
ze buitenlanders zijn in Portugal en de theorie niet volledig beheersen. de taal
en als gevolg daarvan dat ze in theorie problemen ondervinden, helpen we je
op deze website om daar te slagen zonder enige overheidswet te overtreden, dat wil zeggen dat we je een goed verwerkt en geregistreerd rijbewijs geven zonder examens of praktijktest.
dit hele proces duurt ongeveer zes werkdagen. rijbewijs kopen, Führerschein kaufen österreich
Rijbewijs A (motorrijbewijs)
Rijbewijs AM (Dit is het rijbewijs voor brom- en snorfietsen)
Rijbewijs B (Voor auto’s met een maximaal gewicht van 3500 KG)
Of het autorijbewijs.
Rijbewijs C + C1 (Voor campers en/of grotere auto’s)
Rijbewijs D (Dit is bedoeld voor bussen)
Rijbewijs E (Het rijbewijs voor het besturen van B-, C- en D-aanhangwagens.
Ongeacht het type licentie dat u wilt verkrijgen, de registratiedatabase legt altijd een aantal verplichte
stappen op.
Als we ons concentreren op het rijbewijs B, waarmee je auto’s en voertuigen mag besturen waarvan de massa niet meer dan 3500 kg bedraagt, moeten de stappen beginnen met de voorbereiding op een theoretisch examen.
Deze test moet worden behaald wanneer de registratiedatabase hen oproept en het is noodzakelijk om een hoge score op de test te behalen om de volgende
stap te kunnen zetten.
Zodra het theorie-examen is behaald en er een medisch attest is verkregen waaruit
blijkt dat de bestuurder geschikt is om de controle over een voertuig over te nemen, moet de voorbereiding op het praktijkexamen worden uitgevoerd.
Het ideaal is om het voor te bereiden in een gecertificeerde rijschool die de juiste lessen op een nauwkeurige en gereguleerde manier kan geven.
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